Making a Kegulator from an Old Refrigerator.Instructions and procedures for installing an Economy, Standard or Deluxe refrigerator conversion kit into a standard refrigerator to make the perfect home or emergency bar kegger.If you are using an upright freezer you will need our 9025 thermostat | |
Step 1: Get the Fridge.Use or purchase a working refrigerator. You can find them at a garage or yard sale for about $30.00 to $50.00. We selected a bigger 18 cubic foot (cf) model so we can also fit our ½ Keg along with some top shelves remaining for cans and goodies.Remember the size you need is not in cf you must have the inches. Basic ½ Kegs require 16.5" wide by 16.5" deep by 30" height for easy operation. With the Low Boy couplers you can reduce this height requirement by about 5". The installation here is with a 20 pound gas cylinder but 5 pound cylinder is more than adequate for several kegs of beer. Place the fridge where you want your beer. Here it is in the kitchen where it will be very handy. Hint: Be sure it works before you hall it home. |
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Step 2: Round-up the tools.We suggest at least the following tools:
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Step 3: Preparation for start.Remove all the shelving from the fridge and clean it up using a good disinfectant like bleach. Most old fridges are pretty foul inside and that will mess up the rubber hoses if not cleaned. |
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Step 4: Leveling the deck.Using old lumber scraps make the floor of the fridge level. After this is done cover with some 5/8" plywood or other suitable material for the keg and CO2 cylinder to set on. Screw it in place so it will not move. |
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Step 5: Drilling 1" faucet shank hole.Mark off the horizontal center of the door and locate a good spot on the back of the door to put the hole through. After locating the spot measure where it is from the top of the door and transfer that vertical drop to the front of the door where the center of the door mark is located. Drill through here with the 1" hole saw. |
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Step 6: Fitting the shank.Insert the shank into the shank hole with the flange against the outside surface of the door and the nut securely against the inside surface of the outside door wall. See how the inside plastic was cut away with a 3" hole saw to allow for the nut to seat against the inner surface of the outside wall.Here we show a nipple shank but sometimes our better kits are supplied with a bore shank along with an extra beer nut, tail piece and beer washer for use with multiple size hoses. |
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Step 7: Make a template.If you have a Standard or deluxe kit it will come with a drip tray and this step will apply.Using the drip tray mounting bracket or a ruler mark out the mounting holes. Shown here are the dimensions for the black plastic drip tray. With the holes marked out mark the center and transfer the hole marks to the front of the fridge about 11 inches from the bottom of the shank hole's bottom edge. Be sure it is straight and level and in the horizontal center of the door. |
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Step 8: Drill drip tray holes.If you have a Standard or deluxe kit it will come with a drip tray and this step will apply.Using the marks you transferred to the door from the template, drill the two holes to mount the drip tray to the door. After the holes are drilled insert the screws and turn them in while the bracket is not there to get them started and then remove them. |
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Step 9: Mount the bracket.If you have a Standard or deluxe kit it will come with a drip tray and this step will apply.Mount the bracket to the door with the screws provided and tighten them. |
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Step 10: Connect the hoses.Here is a picture of the hoses mounted on the keg coupler and the regulator. Use the clamps provided and secure them using a slotted screwdriver. Here the gas cylinder is mounted in the fridge to protect the regulator from damage. It is a good idea to secure the cylinder to the fridge wall with wire or chain. I always mount the cylinder inside the fridge to protect the gauges and settings from damage but it will work outside as well. Just be sure you place the gas hose hole in a place which will not damage the refrigerator.The regulator shown here is for the deluxe kit. Standard kits get a single gauge regulator. The cylinder should be opened and the low pressure gauge set to read 12 psi. The regulator shutoff is in the off position in this picture. |
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Step 11: Final check.Don't forget to connect the beer line to the shank nipple or the hose tail piece mounted to the shank mounted thru the door. Be sure the lines do not sag but are coiled on top of the keg as best you can. Check all clamps for tightness. |
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Step 12: Get ready to pour.With the beer keg full, the regulator shutoff turned on (inline with the hose), the regulator low pressure gauge reading 12 psi, and the keg coupler lever in the down position you should be ready to pour your first beer. |
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Step 13: Now What.A kegger must be kept clean in order for it to serve up fresh beer. For this you will need a system to clean it. We recommend the 5320 direct draw kit for this very important & necessary job. This kit is supplied with all our deluxe conversion kits. Never clean a beer system with anything but B*L*C* or water if you want to keep your system up to your high standards of fresh, clean brew.Clean your kegger every week with water and faucet brush and once each keg or month, whichever comes first with real B*L*C*. After chemical cleaning be sure to lubricate you coupler seals with Brewery Approved Lube. |
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We are not responsible for typographical errors in prices or descriptions. Pictures may not correctly represent color or form. Absolutely no returns after 30 days for any reason. Most items carry a 1 year manufacturers warrantee. Prices may change without notice due to economic conditions. You must be over 18 years of age to order from the KegMan.Absolutely no returns after 30 days for any reason. Shipping and handling charges are never refundable.
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